Watchmaking Lessons
by E. L. Fasanella, PhD
We have written a series of lessons for watch repair using modern methods and techniques. Most of the watch repair courses and books were written 50- 100 years ago. The techniques described are often outdated, and the chemicals used could easily damage your health! For example, benzene is often recommended for cleaning watches. Benzene is a known carcinogen with links to leukemia, etc.
These lessons were designed for hobbyists, dealers, and for anyone would like to be able to repair their vintage wrist and pocket watches. The techniques described start with simple, but effective methods. You can advance as far as you wish with the advanced lessons, which are in progress. For example, I have an entire lesson on the balance wheel. This lesson will provide modern methods to replace or repair the balance staff, hairspring, roller jewels, etc. Also, sources are given to help you find that elusive part. Many people spend more time looking for parts than working on the watch. Thus, methods to find parts that are slightly oversize and to adjust them down are described. The lessons will be sent to you on a CD in Adobe Acrobat format, and unlike buying a book, you can ask questions by email. Lessons are being developed, so keep checking back.
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Combination Special - Lessons 1,2,3,4,5,7,8,9,10 for only $84.95 (If bought separately almost $200) Read below for complete descriptions
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Lesson 1 - Vintage Mechanical Watch Repair- The Basics $29.00
Designed to teach you how
to repair mechanical movements, pocket and wrist.
How to disassemble a wrist movement, inspect, clean, reassemble, and
adjust. Descriptions of staking sets and other tools and how each
tool is used. Information that
cannot be found elsewhere. Getting started, tools needed to
repair vintage wrist and pocket watches, proper use of tools, reference material
needed such as lists and pictures of parts,
nomenclature, systems of measurements used by watchmakers, identifying the
actual movement maker, determining the approximate age of the watch, names and descriptions of various
watch parts, locating hard to find parts, ordering parts, diagnosis of watch
problems illustrating bad and broken parts, how to
remove the wrist or pocket watch from the case, how to adjust watches to keep
time, recognizing quality in mechanical movements, delicate parts that require
extra care such as the hairspring, balance wheel, escapement, and dial, etc.
Over 80 pages of information.
Also, tips on how to restore watch dials, both metal and glass enamel. Save
up to $30 on your first dial restoration job. On CD. Written in Adobe Acrobat format, so you can print out your own
copy. This is a newly written course for today's hobbyists and prospective
watchmakers.
Lesson 1 now has over 200 pages including diagnosis of mechanical watch failures!!
Chap 1 - Getting Started
Chap 2 - Tools and Equipment Needed and Their Care and Use
Chap 3 - Watchmaker Schools and Old Correspondence Courses
Chap 4 - Watch Company Technical Bulletins
Chap 5 - Nomenclature - How to Identify a Movement
Chap 6 - The Lever Escapement Watch
Chap 7 - Removing a Pocket Watch from the Case
Chap 8 - Removing a Movement from a Wrist Watch
Chap 9 - Dial Removal
Chap 10 - Dial Restoration and Refinishing
Chap 11 - Diagnosis of Mechanical Watch Failures
Chap 12 - Determining Quality of Watch Movements
Chap 13 - The Balance and Timekeeping
Chap 14 - Disassembly, Inspection, and Cleaning of a Elgin Wrist Watch Movement
Chap 15 - Material Supply Companies
Chap 16 - Watch Parts Schematics
Chap 17 - Staking set information
Also newly added- 1) Videos on how to remove the movement from the case
2) Cleaning machine instructions
3) Hamilton repair notes on regulation, friction jeweling, rusty hairspring, temperature compensation
4) Elgin factory watch repair information
Lesson 2 - Disassembly, Inspection,
and Cleaning of the 18 size American Pocket lever with Lever Escapement Second
edition-
This course was designed for the collector, watch dealer, as well as the
professional watch repairman who would like to delve into this profitable
area. The old 18 size American watch is "the" watch for
collectors of old Americana. The 18-size watch was perfected by E. Howard,
and later by the geniuses at Waltham who spawned numerous watch companies.
The variations are extreme from the early Keywinds to the 18-size railroad
watches. This lesson
takes you through the details of disassembling, inspecting, and cleaning of 18 size American pocket
watches from the old keywind to the lever set railroad watch. Emphasis is placed on the proper removal of
delicate parts such as the hands and the dial. The course describes
various types of 18 size mechanisms including keywind and keyless. A
discussion of the various American companies and how their 18 size movements
varied in construction. Inspection includes identifying problems and their
resolution. Cleaning methods including hand cleaning and cleaning with
commercial cleaning machines, solvents, and precautions. Timing and
adjusting of the 18 size movement. Don't look for this course elsewhere,
as it was written by the WatchDoc himself!!!
1. Introduction
2. About this Course
3. Watch Company Parts Catalogs
4. Diagnosis before Disassembly
5. Removing Movement from Case
6. Setting Mechanisms
7. Setting/Winding Malfunctions
8. Refresher on Watch Train and Function
9. Calculating Proper Beat Required by Balance for Timekeeping
10.Inspection During Disassembly and upon Reassembly
11. Dial and Hand removal
12. Removal of Balance Wheel and Hairspring
13. Balance Staff
14. Letting Down Power
15. Removal of Barrel Bridge and Top Plate
16. Removal of Plates and Gears
17. Hand and Machine Cleaning
18. Assembling and Oiling
19. Beat and Escapement Checks
20. Oiling, Replacing Dial and Hands
21. Regulating the Movement
22. Checklist for Disassembly and Reassembly
23. A Repair Story of an 18 size 1883 Model Waltham
Lesson 3 -
$19.95 - 16-Size American Railroad Watch This
lesson provides instructions on servicing the 16-size watch from the 7
jewel Elgin to detailed instructions on servicing the Hamilton 4992B military
and the 992B Hamilton Railroad watch. The entire Hamilton 4992B service
manual is included plus repair sheets on the 992B. In addition, we have
included information on disassembly of high-grade Swiss watches with
illustrations of Patek Philippe disassembly for cleaning. Over
40 pages of instructions. JUST released February 2006.
Chap 1.
Introduction
Chap 2.
About this Lesson
Chap 3.
The 7-Jewel or low-jeweled movement - problems with wear
Chap 4.
High Grade Swiss Watches - Patek Phillippe
Chap 5. Elgin 16-Size Dissassembly
Chap 6. Hairspring manipulation and
troubleshooting
Chap 7.
Typical 16 size High-Grade Movements
Chap 8. Hamilton Repair Manual for
4992 B and Repair notes for 992B
Chap 9.
Hamilton Repair Notes
| Lesson 3: 16-Size American Watch Repair & Hamilton 4992B manual $19.00 |
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Lesson 5 - $29.00 - The Balance Assembly, its Care and Repair - This lesson is one of the most detailed instructions available on replacing staffs and on repair of the balance assembly. It applies to both wrist watches and pocket watches. In addition to specific instructions on balance replacement and repair for both wrist and pocket watches, there are many illustrations to help the beginner and "pro" alike. As an example, the Illinois Bunn Special balance wheel is disassembled, inspected, and the balance staff measured. Then, a new staff is found and the staff is riveted in place. Many large pictures and illustrations were made showing details of these operations. Also, a section is included to detail repivoting a staff and making a staff both from adjusting a staff that is oversize to making one from "scratch." The lesson includes factory information from Hamilton, Waltham, Elgin, and other watch companies on balance staffs and how to install them that was made available to watchmakers many years ago. Different types of staffs are discussed including staffs that are riveted into the wheel and staffs that are friction fit. Various shock resistant jewel systems are discussed. A listing of measurements of some common American staffs is also included. Over 50 pages of instructions. Table of Contents 1.
Introduction 2.
The balance wheel 3. Considerations
before restaffing the vintage watch 4.
Proper fit of balance pivots to balance jewels 5.
Single roller table and double roller 6.
Shock-resistant balance jewel settings 7.
Riveted Balance Staffs and Friction fit staffs 8.
Disassembly of the balance wheel
8a. Removal of the balance wheel from the balance cock
8b. Removal of the hairspring from the balance wheel
8c. Removal of the roller table 9.
Illustration of roller removal using 16s 10.
Removing the 11.
Removal of balance jewels
12.
Replacing the balance staff of a 16 size Bunn Special 13.
Determining the factory number of your staff 14.
Measuring the dimensions of the old balance staff 15.
Installing the new staff into the balance wheel 16.
Checking the new staff’s fit and the motion and shape of the balance
wheel 17.
Installing the roller table(s) onto the balance staff
18.
Installing the hairspring
19.
Testing the newly refurbished balance wheel 20.
Special tools suited to wrist watch staff replacement 21.
Measuring and fitting a roller jewel 22. Repivoting a
balance staff 23. Genuine vs
generic balance staff 24. Making a
Complete Balance Staff 25. Making a
balance wheel and the science of good timekeeping Appendix
A. Factory Leaflets on Staffs and
Balances Appendix B –
American Staff Dimensions Lesson 6 - $19.95 - Repairing US Military Watches WWI though Viet Nam (SOLD SEPARATELY) This lesson of 438 pages contains detailed instructions on repairing US military watches. It covers the 16 size AN5740 Master Navigation watch (complete repair manual), the Hamilton model 22 Chronometer Watch (complete repair manual), the Hamilton/Elgin multi-dial aircraft clock, Seth Thomas Navy clocks parts catalogs, and timers. In addition, military specifications for various watches are included as well as specifications of parts for the various military watches with part numbers. If you ever get any old military watch parts in the original government packages, you can use this information to determine exactly what parts you have. Contents 2.
AN 5740 Master Navigation Watch 3.
4.
Hamilton/Elgin 5471-1 Aircraft Clock 5.
Seth Thomas Navy Clocks 6.
7.
Specifications Appendix A – Parts
lists Over 400 pages of instructions, out latest, released February 2007.
Lesson 7 – Use and Care of the Watchmaker's Lathe, revised and expanded 2nd edition, July 2004, by E. L. Fasanella, the WatchDoc. This newly revised and expanded edition of Lesson 7 by the WatchDoc adds additional information on using the lathe to make watch parts. Also, the use of the lathe in restoration of wrist watch and pocket watch cases is described. Over 30 8.5-in x 11-in. pages of highly useful information for a very low price. Included in the Introduction section to the lathe are the topics: dead-center lathes, live-spindle lathes, sizes of watchmaker's lathes, suggestions for purchasing a lathe, adjustment for end shake, oiling and maintaining the lathe, alignment of head (Spindle) and tailstock of lathe, the correct use of wire chucks, safety, tool post and tip over rest, split chuck variations among manufacturers, belts used to drive lathe, chuck and accessory thread types, and lathe accuracy and the key. Another section describes lathe attachments and accessories and includes: types of gravers including carbide gravers, the adjustable bezel chucks, motors suitable for a lathe, lathe mounting methods, crown chucks, balloon chucks, 3-jaw chuck, cross slide, gear cutter and milling attachment, head stock dividing plate, saw table on lathe, and wheel chucks. The last section describes hand turning with a graver. Several projects are outlined including the making of brass bushings, jewel pushers, drills, bench keys, American and Swiss stems, balance staff repivoting, and making a complete balance staff both from raw stock and from a staff that is slightly oversize. The last section of miscellaneous topics includes: grinding with the lathe, using the lathe for uprighting and jeweling, schematics of other parts that can be made on the lathe, and removing scratches on watch case backs. An appendix is included which shows advertisements in old watch catalogs for lathes and accessories. Introduction
Live-Spindle Lathes
Sizes of Watchmaker's Lathes
Purchasing a lathe
Adjustment for End Shake
Oiling
Alignment of Head (Spindle) and
Tailstock of Lathe
The Correct Use of Wire Chucks
Safety
Tool Post
Split chuck variations among
manufacturers
Lathe Belts
Chuck and accessory threads
Lathe accuracy and the key
Gravers
Bezel Chuck
Lathe Motors
Lathe Mounting Methods
Crown Chucks
Balloon Chucks
3-Jaw Chuck
Cross Slide
Gear Cutter and Milling attachment
Head Stock Dividing Plate
Saw Table on Lathe
Wheel Chucks
Project 1 - Brass Bushings
Project 2 – Jewel Pushers
Project 3 – Drills
Project 4 – Bench Key
Project 5 – Stem
Project 6 - Balance Staff Repivoting
Project 7 – Complete Balance Staff
1. Introduction 2. Tools
and Material Needed 3. Removing
a Pocket Watch from the Case 4. Removing
a movement from a wrist watch case 5. Crystal
Replacement and/or Restoration 6. Wrist
Watch Scratch Removal 7. Pocket
watch scratch removal 8. Dent
Removal
Chap 1. Introduction Chap 2. Jonas Hall, Invents the
Staking Tool Chap 3. Kendrick and Davis (K&D)
“Re-invents” the Staking Tool Chap 4. Buying a Staking Set Chap 5. Care of the Staking Set Chap 6.
K&D Staking Tools and How to Use Them
This informative CD includes pictures showing how to take the CDIA out of the case. Also pictures of Waltham aircraft clocks in original aircraft cockpits. Some examples are the "Spirit of St. Louis" and military WWII aircraft. Pictures of various Waltham aircraft clocks include the early XA model, the CDIA, etc. An early Waltham catalog with pics and descriptions of aircraft and car clocks is included. For the serious hobbyist and repairman, pages from old Waltham material catalogs are shown with the parts illustrated (with part numbers) for these aircraft clocks. Also, Waltham Technical Manual on the Waltham A13A with overhaul instructions and parts breakdown. Finally, material on the Waltham A-11 and the Hamilton Elgin complex aircraft used on WWII bombers. This information was not generally included in the old watchmaker catalogs. This information is very useful to both the collector and restorer of these fine timepieces.
Last updated August 2011 |
